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blogs -
About Thailand
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 | I'm trying to synthesize this past week's adventure up to Vientiane Laos from our island home on Koh Phangan in Thailand. Staring
at the page trying to figure out where to begin, what was important or
affecting, what instigated new understanding. The people encountered,
the sounds, the smells, the thoughts and anecdotes that are worthy of
sharing, which might perhaps offer a small bit of insight to a fellow
traveler, or to the curiously inclined. The technical bits: Pros
& Cons of boats, buses, trains, taxis, tuk-tuks, and walking... oh
yeah, and the ins & outs of getting that semi-illusive new visa for
Thailand in Vientiane Laos. |
1) Getting from Koh Phangan up to Bangkok and onward to Nong Khai and into Laos to Vientiane - The travel details. Please
Note that the travel times and prices are off the top of my head and
are close to being accurate for 2009 but you should double check them
or just use this as a rough guide line.
| There are a couple of options, and over time we've explored most of the them. The Raja car Ferry is the quickest in terms of basic travel to and from these islands. The
cost is 220 bahts per person each way, and takes a little over 2 hours
from shore to shore (Thong Sala Pier on Koh Phangan to the Donsak Ferry
Terminal near Surat Thani), but now you've got to figure out how to get
yourself into town. There are speed boats and oversized Catamaran
services, but we find them a little pricey, so we'll leave that up to
you to research if you're so inclined. Another option is the Night
Boat, at around 440 bahts per person each way. The Night Boat leaves
the Thong Sala Pier at 10 PM, and arrives right near the Surat Thani
city center at 5:30 AM, and this solves the problem of getting from
Donsak into town (a bit over 70KMs) for trains or buses to continue the
journey up to Bangkok. This time, we chose to ride the government bus right from the island straight through to Bangkok. There
are 3 classes of government bus; 24 seat "v.i.p." aircon, 40 seat
semi-v.i.p. aircon, and the basic fan bus. We took the 40 seater at a
cost of a bit under 700 bahts each to Bangkok. Next time, I'd opt
for the 24 seat bus at around 1000 bahts to Bangkok as this bus would
be infinitely roomier for people who are taller than the average Thai
person. Another option from Surat Thani to Bangkok is the train. The
train leaves Surat Thani in the evening and travels overnight up to
Bangkok for around 800 bahts each - 2nd class aircon sleeper, or even
cheaper for a 2nd class fan sleeper. After comparing the train
against the bus, the train wins hands down, especially if sleep and
comfort have any value in your world.  

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Our chosen bus left Koh Phangan at 5 PM and arrived at the Bangkok Southern Line Terminal at around 6 AM. From
the bus terminal, we jumped on a city bus (40 bahts each versus a taxi
at 400 to 1000 bahts depending on your negotiation abilities) and got
ourselves to the main Hua Lamphon train station, where we checked our
backpacks for the day (50 bahts each) and bought the onward night ride
train tickets up to Nong Khai near the Laos Border. | A second class aircon sleeper, costing around 780 bahts each, departed Bangkok at 8 PM to arrive in Nong Khai at 8 AM. Our
Bangkok to Nong Khai train pulled into Nong Khai a little late (not an
unusual thing), just a bit after 9 AM, after rolling through a lush
morning countryside of rice paddies, rubber trees, small towns and the
big city of Udon Thani, followed by more rice paddies and the smell of
wet rattan and frangipani. |
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| We stamped out through immigration Thailand, and onto the onward 20
baht a seat train from Nong Khai across the Mekong River's "Friendship
Bridge" into Laos. We rolled out of the station a little after 10 AM,
and within 15 minutes we were handing our passports to the Laos
Immigration officer at the Thanaleng train station, and were being
issued our Lao 30 day visa at a cost of $42 USD ($35USD for Americans
and other prices depending on the country that issued your passport). | Vientiane is about 40km's from the train station. The tracks literally
end at Thanaleng, and Thanaleng is in the middle of nowhere. That's as
far as you can travel by train in Laos, so it's all walking, tuk-tuk's,
taxis, buses, and boats from here on in. Vientiane welcomed us into
her heat and temples, her streets that look like a throw back to a 1930
colourized film, and the fresh smell of bread, flowers, and a hint of
the Mekong's unique wet scent just to help keep all the olfactory
senses honest. We found a room in a guesthouse on a small side street a few blocks from the town centre. $15USD
got us a great room with aircon/hot/cold shower/balcony with french
doors looking out over the small but bustling street. A late afternoon
stroll along the Mekong River road, wandering in and out of the temples
that are more pervasive than Starbucks in their heyday, umbrella-ed
monks in bright orange robes nibbling the seed pods from lotus flowers
while moving from temple to temple... Just letting my feet go where
they will eventually found me back in the coolness of our room in the
Hake-Soye Guesthouse. |
 | Day 2 in Laos was "get the visa" day, so a tuk-tuk to the Thai embassy
at 40,000 kip=approximately $5 USD which was at least twice what it should have
cost (live and learn), push your way through the Laos folks trying to
make some money by offering to process your passport for you, and in
through the embassy gates, grab a number from the number dispensing
machine, grab a form, fill it all out, glue your two visa photos onto
the form with the glue provided, get a photocopy of the main page of
your passport (no one tells you this), and just for fun write "times 2"
on the line that says expected duration of stay (normally you'd write
60 days but if you add the "times 2" you might just get 120 days), and
find a comfy shaded spot to wait until your number is called. And
prepare to wait,..and wait, listening to a constant mind numbing sonic
barrage of numbers being called both in Thai and in english, and then
wait some more. We met some great people during our long wait, shared
some info, and agreed to meet up later in the day. |
| | The Thai Embassy opens at 9:00 AM and closes at 12 noon for the processing of the mornings visa applications. The
afternoons are reserved for picking up passports with the new visa
hopefully stamped inside - pick up is the next day between 1 PM and 4
PM. Make sure you save the number ticket you picked up upon arrival as
you'll need to use that to pick up you passport on the following day
(no one tells you this). Passports and paperwork completed, we took
another tuk-tuk back into the centre of town at 1/2 the price
(20,000kip) of our morning tuk-tuk ride, still probably paying too
much, but we were happy. The afternoon was dedicated to some serious
walking around town, trying to find a good music store, and walking up
to the main market on a voyage of discovery. During our walk around,
we noticed that the Laos men really really love a crisp spotless
uniform, so while we're wilting, they look like adds in "Sexy Man in
Uniform" magazine, all happy but serious, in a smiley
starched/knife-pleated authority look. They were all extremely helpful
and polite, but they don't seem to sweat and rumple... which is magic
as far as I'm concerned! Vientiane is HOT!!! Luckily, Beer Lao
is kept very cool and is as delicious as it is cheap - just under $1USD
for a quart bottle, and is a fine way to cool off after a long hot
tramp around town. The food in Vientiane fall easily into the
category of "cuisine", it is excellent and fairly inexpensive.. from
your morning latte and fresh baked croissants to your evening of dining
delight, you won't be disappointed in what Vientiane has to offer... And yes, we got that double visa of 2 times 60 days. |
One of many many temples in the old part of Vientiane
| Another temple within the old part of the city
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The end of this 120 days is fast approaching.. Dec 26 to be exact, so we'll be heading back to Laos for another 120. We
are playing our fifth concert at the halfmoonfestival on Dec 24th, so early on the 25th we'll
catch a ferry to Surat Thani and head for the airport for our AirAsia
flight to Bangkok 2900baht for two people
one way up to BKK, the hub of Thailand. A taxi will bring us into the
city straight to the train station and another 1400baht see's us riding
over- night in a 2nd class fan sleeper train up to Nong Khai, out of
Thailand and into Laos without getting another overstay fine.. This
time we booked our travel ahead as new years is coming up and many Thai
people travel a lot around this time of the year. We managed to book
from Koh Phangan all the way to Laos and to return as far as Bangkok on
the 30th, but that's where our luck ran out ..the southbound trains
that would bring us home to our island are completely booked..we'll
figure something out. Perhaps another government bus ride from Bangkok
to Koh Phangan? Maybe this time we'll see if we can ride on the 24 seat
version. That may make all the difference.. | On the return portion of our last trip up to Laos, the train was
nearly full and all we could get was 2 hard seats for the 12 plus hour
ride from Nong Khai to Bangkok. Something i would not recommend unless
you're a serious masochist. Nonetheless, we enjoyed the experience
despite a big case of sore ass and cramped legs.. The "sitting cars" at
the back end of the train are not usually visited by tourists, and our
voyage on it has brought us both to a slightly greater understanding of
this country and her people, the quiet smiles, the patience, the
buddhist influence on everyday living and giving..
How would you like to work for the electrical company in Vientiane?..I think not!!
We returned home to Koh Phangan weary and wiser, ever so happy to open the door to our new home in the coconut grove. And happily welcomed in 2010 with a night of improve music at the Jam. We also put our new M-Audio Axiom 25 to the test at the half moon festival on January 8th and it worked like a charm!
(recycled glass in Bangkok) More to come...
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blogs -
About Thailand
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 | We landed in Bangkok on January 4th, it's now August 13th. and we've eased into the idea of living in Thailand to the point where Canada sounds more like the cousin of an exotic species of sugar cane than the place from whence we came. It seems like we've always lived here. While the flora and fauna still astound, our appreciation and growing understanding of the Thai people and their culture/philosophy puts a perspective on our day to day living.
| The euphoria of the tourist, the joys and difficulties of the life within the microcosm of this island, the locals, the expats, the wildness of pets, reveal an insight into human nature, the frailties, the strengths, the innate philosophy, the dreams and wishes of those we've come to know, the loves found and the loves lost, tumbling around on the incoming tide. They are the spice of day to day living on Koh Phangan. They are universal. | We've recently been invited to perform a series of Moscow fish concerts at the 1/2 moon festival starting in September. So now, we're well into the software that will allows us to fulfill a vision we had for a new musical direction as we were packing up our life in Canada back in December of last year. Many of the items necessary for a live show where left behind in Canada. They just didn't fit in our two small backpacks and single suitcase. With help from our new friends on this island, we have found some of their counterparts here, unconditionally loaned to us, a midi keyboard, digital percussion, an electric guitar, a small mixing board etc., which will allow us to do a performance that incorporates our live music, our live loops, and dj technology/software, rolling it all into a live performance art. We came here, with a nano studios, equipped to explore a new method of making music, to create and refine ideas, and to play with new software. The thought of creating a new way to performing our music was a ways off into the future, with perhaps a trip back to Canada to pick up more gear. Funny how life works. Now, we've been given the opportunity to put some of this into practice - a little ahead of schedule, but I think it's better to bend with what life blows your way, especially if you may have unconsciously wished it. I'm also glad that as much as we've been diving into the ocean to look at fishes, we've been learning to crack the 9th dimension of a lot of new software. So I guess it's all just another day in a beautiful place. | We've got another visa trip coming up at the end of the month. This time it'll be Kuala Lampur in Malaysia, or Venentian in Laos. Rumour has it that right now Penang, Malaysia (the closest place), is being a bit inconsistent with regards to the issuance of visas, so we think we'll avoid it this time around, despite how much as we loved being there the last time. This visa thing can be somewhat complicated, with the rules changing regularly, and the interpretation of said "ever changing rules" is at the discretion of the official holding your passport. And that too is same same the world over. |
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blogs -
About Thailand
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 | Like most people, I think we've just been caught up in life for awhile, and because of that, we have neglected the part of our communication which is this blog. Wish I could say we're sorry, but honestly, i don't think we really are. But we can begin to remedy the situation right now starting with a haiku... | we've not been lazy / quietly hunting answers / sometimes we find them | | Gotta post about our trip down to Georgetown in Penang Malaysia.... We've got some great photos to add to a tale is mostly written. For now, we'll leave you with a link to an ongoing history that you may be unaware of. It's the story of how New Cathertonia is now set on total and absolute world domination.. We think it might be a good idea... And besides, the New Cathertonian flag is pretty damn cool. | The hills beyond Hin Kong - west coast of Koh Phangan
| June and July have been comfortably hot, with small bursts of windy tempestuous weather. Can't imagine being anywhere else. |
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blogs -
About Thailand
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The steep chocolate-chip-like peaks slide away from the back of the car ferry as we leave the mainland behind and slowly chug across the gulf of thailand back to our island home Koh Pangan. We left 3 days ago to head south to Malaysia on our second visa stamping trip. We took the sunset ferry to Suratthani and the night train down to the city of Hat Yai. | | | We arrived in Hat Yai as the sun was rising, as the city was swinging into gear. |
Hat Yai is in southern Thailand about 50klm to the Malaysian border. Each step further south within Thailand reveals that this country has a blend of mostly Buddhist and Muslim cultures. The Buddhist Temples are still plentiful in the south, but the Mosques start to become more and more visible, as do the head scarfs on the muslim women. By the time we reached Hat Yai, we were starting to see full Hijabs (full upper body/face coverings). Any given street in Hat Yai might reveal long dark haired Thai women, hijab covered muslim women, and buddhist monks threading their between the two.
Hat Yai seems to be a shopping Mecca for Malaysians and Thai alike, and religion doesn't interfere with shopping. |  | Our quest in Hat Yai encompassed first and foremost the new stamp on our Thailand visa, which requires that you get stamped out and exit the country, get stamped into - in our case, Malaysia, then stamped out of Malaysia, walk back into Thailand and get that happy stamp in your
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| passport which allows you back in for a period of time depending on the visa you hold. It can be as little as 15 days, or 60 days which is what our particular visa gives us. Our surprise upon getting our stamp out of Thailand was to discover that we'd overstayed by 2 days, as such we both received a 1000baht fine. Funny how our last entry stamp of march 4th jumbled with our required exit stamp on may 2nd. Ted was convinced for a few minutes that we where going to be refused re-entry and was quietly peaking.. | | I was pretty sure that the Thai Government was happy to take our fine and would gladly let us back in hoping we'd make the same mistake again. I did feel pretty foolish though, as we trudged towards the Malaysian stamping process with our collective pockets 2000baht lighter. By the time we where stamped back into Thailand with a bonus of 30 days we didn't expect (we figured they felt sorry for the dumb farangs and bumped up our stay - our multi-entry visa should have expired in 30 days), we were pretty much over it. |
| The second part of our quest while in Hat Yai was to find a specific external 750GB hard drive to hold our video files. Through this quest we discovered much of Hat Yai and were helped by some very wonderful people who mostly spoke a tiny bit of english which smoked our fledgling ability to speak Thai. One young man frustrated by his inability to give us direction to our 5th computer store, had me jump on the back of his bike and drove me there while Ted stayed in his scooter shop and played guitar jamming with the shop boys. Music crosses most boundaries, especially language. While we never did find the external drive of our dreams, we met great folks. We shunned the expensive Thongsue's and taxis and air-conditioned buses and hopped on the local Thai city buses, we even took the city bus to and from the border some 50klm away much to the dismay of many a taxi driver. The difference in price didn't quite make up for our "overstay" fine but cut the pain of it in half. On the city bus we met many fine locals, from small children to grandmothers, but nary a white face. The locals would shyly practice the english they possessed, and in turn we would learn a few more words in Thai. The city buses are rich in character. One had an exhaust that was falling off and sounded like a giant tuba played very badly, another we dubbed the "happy bus" as it was extremely colourful on the inside with extra blinking lights wired in, swinging fans, thai music blaring so loud the speakers could hardly contain it, and the driver honking and waving at everyone he passed. I met a glowing 84 year old grandmother lugging her parcels of melons, squash , mystery thai fruit and veggies, and a bunch of green coconuts still clinging to the vine, all in all it probably weighed 45 pounds. I flexed my arm muscle and pointed at her arms, she smiled with gaptoothed joy and proceeded to tell me what each item was in Thai. She wai'ed Thai style with steepled hands at every buddhist temple we passed until she fell asleep amidst her parcels, the pounding thai tunes, the jostling of the bus, and the days heat blasting the trough the open windows..sweet dreams beautiful grandama...meanwhile..luawn mak mak..very hot! |
| Going down towards Hat Yai and the border, we rode an air-conditioned sleeper train which traveled southward through the Thai night in relative luxury. The seats were converted into beds and we slept in white sheets as the train rolled through the countryside to arrive in Hat Yai around 6:30am. Our return journey to the middle of Thailand was on a real Thai train (old rickety ceiling fans and no other tourists) that looked like it was fabricated sometime in the 1950's or 60's. |  | | (These are pictures from a previous train ride - my camera died just a bit before this trip) | At every stop, and there were many, the station platform was alive with vendours selling food and drinks which were passed through the open windows (the windows don't open on the aircon train) in exchange for minute amounts of Thai bahts. As the train took us back towards Suratthani, the night fell like a stone on red dirt roads that cut through the rice paddys, pineapple groves, and rubber tree farms through which the train rolled slowly north. Trackside shantytowns (the better homes being further away from the rails) gave way to fields that stretched as far as the eye could see. Buddhist temples built majestically high on those steep chocolate chip style mountains that dotted the plains fell behind us and faded into night.
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The seats were turned into beds and dressed in white sheets equally as luxurious as the more expensive "farang/express" train. Sometime during the night, the train broke down while trying to crest a very long fairly steep pass between two mountains. I stood at an open doorway and felt the train shudder and saw sparks fly from under the locomotive engine as it attempted to gain forward momentum. Train officials with clipboards and radios conferenced near the sparking locomotive and then headed to the back of the train. All train employee faces held that serious official look that says I'm way to busy to explain. After more sparks and failed attempts at forward motion, the train started to roll backwards through the night with increasing speed. I hung in the open doorway and watched the dark jungle fly past in the wrong direction, hoping that this was all according to plan, hoping that the train cars wouldn't end in a jumble of twisted metal at the bottom of the mountain. Unable to communicate with the thai train officials, I decided to let Ted sleep (the whole backwards-sliding-train-down-a-mountain thing is not quite his cup of tea), and I'd just enjoy the backwards slide as if it were an ride in an amusement park. The land flattened out and the train slowed to a stop. Through the doorway to the outside world I could see another conference taking place beside the locomotive engine. Radio's squawked, clipboards were referenced and cell phones were held aggressively to heads attached to bodies that paced nervously back and forth while engine idled and other bodies scrambled around under the engine banging on unseen bits of metal. After a time, the banging stopped, cell phones snapped shut, and everyone got back on the train. The train lurched forward and started to gain momentum for the long climb. The night jungle flew past in the right direction as the train barreled back up towards the top of the pass. Pretty sure my crossed fingers got us through and down to another long stop at a small station on the far side of the pass, more banging, clanging, radios squawking, and cell calls, vendours and hawkers making the most of our unexpected and enforced visit. I bought some noodles and speculated on the slim chances of making our connection ferry back to Koh Phangan.
|  | The train eventually did make it to Suratthani well after midnight, long long after the last daily ferry had left for the island. We found a cheap clean hotel near the train station and enjoyed a good rest. Caught the morning ferry which brings us back to the beginning of the blog with the ferry pulling away from the mainland towards our home on the beautiful Koh Phangan. Well, it's now creeping up on the end of the month of June. We're getting ready to head down south again, this time further south to Penang in Malaysia for our visa renewal. Seems like we were just at the border... Two months just flew by.... | This time we'll try another combination to get us there and back. Maybe we'll try the long night ferry to the mainland and the city of Suratthani, a government aircon bus down to Hat Yai, then our 40 baht local red city bus from Hat Yai (50kms) to the Pedang Bezar border crossing, a leisurely walk into Malaysia, a Malaysian train ride from the border down and across to Butterworth, and then the taxi and ferry to the city of Penang where we'll hang out for a few days while our visas are arranged. And this time I'll have a working camera. Not sure what combination of planes, trains, etc., will see us through on our return to Koh Phangan from Penang, but we'll let you know how it unfolds, and no doubt, some adventure will ensue which we'll happily share with you.
| | ...Gotta remember to buy guitar strings.. Generally speaking, the cost and quality of guitar strings here in Thailand...um..well...sorta just sucks! May Malaysia be better!? Oh.. about that hard drive? I ordered it online from Bangkok and it arrived within 3 days. Works like a charm, and has freed up much needed space on both laptops. |
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